ATLAS: vol 1. Austin, TX–At Ranch 616, Texas-Style Icehouse
Weird enough for this town.
Certainly no shortage of neon at Ranch 616. Worth notice is an air-conditioning duct turned piss-mean snake sculpture, complete with flashing neon-red tongue. There’s an arched tin canopy over the patio, and, adjacent, a 15-foot high, neon-yellow, six-shooter sculpture. Inside, the neon relaxes, now a dull blue emanating from a three-foot-by-five-foot Modelo beer sign.
The rib-eye is smokey and deeply flavorful, but the mashed potatoes would be better without the cheese and bacon.
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