Cafe Central, est. 1876

Let’s start with the ceiling: off white, almost yellow, with maroon and purple stripes vaulting across small, uneven domes.  Turquoise stripes split with pink rise up then down to the heads of marble columns.

The windows arch to the top of the columns, bordered by paisley curtains

The room, large, greets the enterer with a pastry counter and a statue of Peter Attenberg, a former patron.

Now for dessert.  The milchrahmstrudel has a damp and flakey crust, while the cheese curd, exactly the same color as the vanilla sauce, bounces beneath my utensil.  The strawberry is out of season, but the whipped cream is homemade.

Waiters are friendly and attentive, for once in this town.

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